I am in the midst of building my built-in shelves and desk. When I was in the design phase, I thought about a number of different materials. The look I was/am going for is old-school, dark stained, floor to ceiling library. Building it out of pine, while certainly the cheapest, would look either too cheap or too country to get the look I am trying to achieve. I don't have the shop to do a hardwood desktop so that was also out of the question. My next consideration was veneer.
There are lots of good veneers out there. Some of the most exotic woods and beautiful grains are available in a wide scale of prices. Looking for the lowest price but most appropriate wood type, I decided on an acceptable veneer. Then I added up how much material I would need. Price multiplied by sq. ft and I very quickly started looking for another option. The total price for veneer, for this particular project - a lot of surfaces involved - ended up being around $2000. That is both literally and figuratively on top of the base materials needed to build the structure of the desk.
My final choice was to go with a formaldehyde-free birch finish plywood. 5 sheets of 3/4" and one sheet of 1/2" was exactly enough to do the job (I hope... I'm pretty sure... I'll know soon). Total price was around $260. Much better. Yet one concern did, and still does, exist.
The idea of building something nice out of plywood, to me, is a bit of an oxymoron. Something about plywood - stained, painted or otherwise - always reminds me of that stereo cabinet I build in high school shop class. In a week or two, when I step back and look at the finished product, will I realize that my new cubicle resembles the inside of a plywood box? I hope not.
One thing that has helped me continue on, though. I was perfectly happy with veneer. Albeit, I was going to go for something cool, but birch isn't a bad wood. In fact, birch is pretty easy to finish in a way that looks quite handsome. So why then, do I have this prejudice against plywood. After all, plywood is nothing more than a series of veneers. I repeat this to myself as I cut or stain or edge band or poly. It's helping me move along.
In the back of my head I think 'I can just apply a veneer later, if I can't stand it'.
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Honey Make Money
With the decision to hire out the job of building my office came a great relief. No longer would I be stressing out over when and how I would tackle each task. No longer would I be scouring the internet to figure out how I would accomplish something. No longer would I care about how much concrete to buy.
On the other hand, a new set of responsibilities fell on my shoulders. While Sammy, my hired hand, would take care of all methods and materials, I now have two responsibilities; 1) make money and 2) manage the project.
Flipping through the channels the other night, I heard a woman on HGTV say 'You can't build a house with monopoly money'. It true. You need real money and it goes very fast. When it's not me at big box doing the purchasing, there is a lot less time wasted because Sammy doesn't really care if he saves a dollar or two; he just cares if he has the materials he needs. When you are trying to complete a project, that's a healthier way to go.
In slight contrast, I can't just let Sammy loose on the thing and expect it to come out the way I want it. I have to stay vigilant to ensure that boxes are put in the right place, supports are at the appropriate height, and every other little detail is made.
So for the past few weeks, my 'job' has been pretty different. It has no longer been hours in Home Depot; rather it's a quick stop, pick up a $100 gift card or two and I'm done. It has no longer been early mornings quietly sizing boards or measuring width; it has been staying ahead of the carpenter to make sure shelves will have something to hang on.
Sammy finished his work about a week ago. Now I have a pretty much completed room except for shelves, desk and low-voltage jacks (phone, network, cable). Although it was nice to have the job accelerated back to a better timeline,it was amazing how quickly things slowed down once the project was back in my hands.
Maybe another week or two and it will be all done.
On the other hand, a new set of responsibilities fell on my shoulders. While Sammy, my hired hand, would take care of all methods and materials, I now have two responsibilities; 1) make money and 2) manage the project.
Flipping through the channels the other night, I heard a woman on HGTV say 'You can't build a house with monopoly money'. It true. You need real money and it goes very fast. When it's not me at big box doing the purchasing, there is a lot less time wasted because Sammy doesn't really care if he saves a dollar or two; he just cares if he has the materials he needs. When you are trying to complete a project, that's a healthier way to go.
In slight contrast, I can't just let Sammy loose on the thing and expect it to come out the way I want it. I have to stay vigilant to ensure that boxes are put in the right place, supports are at the appropriate height, and every other little detail is made.
So for the past few weeks, my 'job' has been pretty different. It has no longer been hours in Home Depot; rather it's a quick stop, pick up a $100 gift card or two and I'm done. It has no longer been early mornings quietly sizing boards or measuring width; it has been staying ahead of the carpenter to make sure shelves will have something to hang on.
Sammy finished his work about a week ago. Now I have a pretty much completed room except for shelves, desk and low-voltage jacks (phone, network, cable). Although it was nice to have the job accelerated back to a better timeline,it was amazing how quickly things slowed down once the project was back in my hands.
Maybe another week or two and it will be all done.
Monday, June 7, 2010
When to say enough
After spending a couple weeks traveling on business, I was ready to return home and "bang out" the office. Really, it's a pretty simple job. Demo one wall, pour a 3 1/2 overpour in a 3'x9' space, frame out about 9 linear feet, pop in two windows and a door, insulate & seal. It's not that much work and none if it is very tricky. Except for a couple things...
It's early June now in Arizona. That means that by 9 am, it's about 100 degrees. That's pretty hot. When you are staring at the idea of hand-mixing about 12 bags of ready-mix, "pretty hot" turns quickly to "oh no, much too hot". Add to the heat, this slow realization that I am not really in my early 20's anymore. And, to top it off, the clock is ticking; I have too many other things lined up.
I stood in the open space - soon to become my office - and contemplated the important things in my life. Being able to proudly say "I built this", is pretty low on that list. So, I will dip into the coffers and pay someone to do it for me. The things that are very critical (electric and HVAC) were planned to be hired help, and the areas where I have no skills (stucco) as well. However, after deep consideration, the rest of the work too will be outsourced.
Wow, what am I going to do with all this time?
It's early June now in Arizona. That means that by 9 am, it's about 100 degrees. That's pretty hot. When you are staring at the idea of hand-mixing about 12 bags of ready-mix, "pretty hot" turns quickly to "oh no, much too hot". Add to the heat, this slow realization that I am not really in my early 20's anymore. And, to top it off, the clock is ticking; I have too many other things lined up.
I stood in the open space - soon to become my office - and contemplated the important things in my life. Being able to proudly say "I built this", is pretty low on that list. So, I will dip into the coffers and pay someone to do it for me. The things that are very critical (electric and HVAC) were planned to be hired help, and the areas where I have no skills (stucco) as well. However, after deep consideration, the rest of the work too will be outsourced.
Wow, what am I going to do with all this time?
Monday, May 17, 2010
The Pool Pump - Lessons Learned
Well, things didn't go a smoothly as I hoped. They didn't go as badly as I feared, either. First lesson learned - don't try to move a sand filter when it is full of sand. I did this and the first two or three inches went very well, then it slipped off the slab and I broke the plastic base that supports the filter. So, I ran off to Big Orange and got a wet-dry vac to suck the sand out. Then I noticed I put major crack in the plastic base supp
ort. That doesn't look good. Once again, I'm in the car visiting pool supply places - long story short; this little plastic base is a $110 special order item. Ha! No thanks. A couple of hose clamps fitted together will do a fine job fixing my error. After that, it was a matter of blasting the earth with a pressure washer, sucking up the water with the new wet vac (much easier than a coffee can) and blasting a little more with the pressure washer. Now, some people might think a shovel is a good way of digging a hole. In some cases, shovels do work fine. But digging in the Arizona ground is very similar to digging solid rock. The soil here is a heavy clay. A friend had told me that saturating the ground with water helps ease the task, I just took his suggestion a little further. What a fantastic approach. Putting the pine cone attachment on the pressure washer allows me to quickly and easily cut the earth with great precision. A great way to do it (and cheaper than renting a jack hammer.) Another issue with doing work like this in Arizona is the heat. It's hard to stay interested in a project like this, so Sunday afternoon I decided I would take a rest and resume the project the next weekend. Hopefully, after a week of sitting fallow, the pool would not be too green. Friday afternoon, I resumed my job, glued all the PVC into place, refilled the filter (with the old sand) and fired it up. Backwash works well. Turn off the pump. Switch off the backwash. Turn on the pump. Pressure builds. Then a quiet little woosh and there is sand everywhere. Hmmm. Seems there is a bit of a problem. 
Next morning, Saturday, I empty out the filter turn it over and it seems I have discovered part two of why sand filters shouldn't be moved full. Yep, I've cracked the darn thing. I wait until the stores open and once again, I'm in the car off to buy a new one. A Triton II TR60 costs about $600. However, Checker Pool & Pump Supply on Indian Bend is having a sale. It's going to run me $427. Ok, fine. I don't have much of a choice. I buy a new filter and six bags of new sand. The mini cooper handles 300lbs of sand pretty well. I install the filter, and fire it up. This time it's working well. Sunday morning now. The new config has been running 20 hours and all is well. And I'm very happy this phase of the project is complete. The results are quite nice.
ort. That doesn't look good. Once again, I'm in the car visiting pool supply places - long story short; this little plastic base is a $110 special order item. Ha! No thanks. A couple of hose clamps fitted together will do a fine job fixing my error. After that, it was a matter of blasting the earth with a pressure washer, sucking up the water with the new wet vac (much easier than a coffee can) and blasting a little more with the pressure washer. Now, some people might think a shovel is a good way of digging a hole. In some cases, shovels do work fine. But digging in the Arizona ground is very similar to digging solid rock. The soil here is a heavy clay. A friend had told me that saturating the ground with water helps ease the task, I just took his suggestion a little further. What a fantastic approach. Putting the pine cone attachment on the pressure washer allows me to quickly and easily cut the earth with great precision. A great way to do it (and cheaper than renting a jack hammer.) Another issue with doing work like this in Arizona is the heat. It's hard to stay interested in a project like this, so Sunday afternoon I decided I would take a rest and resume the project the next weekend. Hopefully, after a week of sitting fallow, the pool would not be too green. Friday afternoon, I resumed my job, glued all the PVC into place, refilled the filter (with the old sand) and fired it up. Backwash works well. Turn off the pump. Switch off the backwash. Turn on the pump. Pressure builds. Then a quiet little woosh and there is sand everywhere. Hmmm. Seems there is a bit of a problem. 
Next morning, Saturday, I empty out the filter turn it over and it seems I have discovered part two of why sand filters shouldn't be moved full. Yep, I've cracked the darn thing. I wait until the stores open and once again, I'm in the car off to buy a new one. A Triton II TR60 costs about $600. However, Checker Pool & Pump Supply on Indian Bend is having a sale. It's going to run me $427. Ok, fine. I don't have much of a choice. I buy a new filter and six bags of new sand. The mini cooper handles 300lbs of sand pretty well. I install the filter, and fire it up. This time it's working well. Sunday morning now. The new config has been running 20 hours and all is well. And I'm very happy this phase of the project is complete. The results are quite nice.
Friday, May 14, 2010
The Pool Pump - Moving things around
One of my first initiatives, now that I've stripped the back part of the yard, is to relocate my sand filter and the piping related to that. I've been digging things up for about a month now, and tomorrow I will attempt the herculean task of moving this thing.
Ok - I know everyone reading this (which is no one) is thinking "Really? you're going to move a sand filter? Do you know how much they weigh?"
Yes, the sand filter weights about 350lbs. And yes, I really am going to move it...full of sand. The reason for this is to gain a 2' x 7' section of yard so I can have a little more space for a fountain and water garden. I'm only moving the thing about 2' in a diagonal direction - moving it to a slab I poured where the level and tape are in the photo. I expect it to be quite difficult.
I guess the upside of that is it wont be half as hard to move it as it will be to take it out someday! (Yes, I've considered that too and decided that since it is only 40lbs empty, when that eventuality comes, it will simply have to be emptied first before removing it.
Here is a list of challenges:
Ok - I know everyone reading this (which is no one) is thinking "Really? you're going to move a sand filter? Do you know how much they weigh?"
Yes, the sand filter weights about 350lbs. And yes, I really am going to move it...full of sand. The reason for this is to gain a 2' x 7' section of yard so I can have a little more space for a fountain and water garden. I'm only moving the thing about 2' in a diagonal direction - moving it to a slab I poured where the level and tape are in the photo. I expect it to be quite difficult.I guess the upside of that is it wont be half as hard to move it as it will be to take it out someday! (Yes, I've considered that too and decided that since it is only 40lbs empty, when that eventuality comes, it will simply have to be emptied first before removing it.
Here is a list of challenges:
- I am still waiting to acquire one last 1 1/2" PVC ball valve.
- I am expecting this thing to be very heavy
- Once I cut the pipes, how much water is going to come out of them
- How can I minimize #3 above
- Will there be enough room between the filter and the pump to put in proper housing
- Since I am using a pressure washer to dig up the dense earth, will I have enough yard space to bail things out
- Am I putting too many bends in the system?
- Will I be able to break the slab just enough to run the pipes but not so much that it undermines the area where the pump sits
- Can I get a little more of the digging done this afternoon?
- Will I have any leaks
- Have I thought enough about how all those pipes are going to run?
- Is it going to be really hot tomorrow?
Thursday, May 13, 2010
The Building Permit - Not Quite Enough
My last post was just prior to heading down to City Hall to talk about my building permit. Although I did not get my permit, I have to say they were incredibly helpful and friendly.
Pulling out my slightly better than amateur drawings, I could see the man holding back his chuckles. I wondered if he could see that I, too, was trying not to chuckle. After all, if a real contractor was applying for this permit, they would certainly be held to a much higher standard. As the "dumb homeowner", I'm granted a little bit of leeway. In reality, the plans are not bad.
There were a couple of details missing from my plans; how I was going to tie the slab overpour to the existing, how I was going to secure the base plate to that slab and the real doozey... how far from the centerline of the street.
Well, that last point has opened up a can of worms. It seems that my rectangular shaped lot has one side measuring 110 feet and the other side measuring 155 feet. Anyone who has taken 7th grade geometry can quickly see that this is impossible - it is a rectangle, after all, and two sides must be equal in length. This discrepancy is caused by the fact that my lot was originally 110 and 155, but the prior homeowner deeded the extra nub of land back to the community. So now, city hall has records which show the proper shape, but the wrong dimensions. Other than having to go out and buy bigger paper, I am faced with a challenge. Do I replicate the mistaken dimensions? Or do I correct the mistake and report the proper dimensions, which will, no doubt, trigger a full survey of my lot - at my expense?
I think I will just keep drawing and try to get back to city hall next week.
Pulling out my slightly better than amateur drawings, I could see the man holding back his chuckles. I wondered if he could see that I, too, was trying not to chuckle. After all, if a real contractor was applying for this permit, they would certainly be held to a much higher standard. As the "dumb homeowner", I'm granted a little bit of leeway. In reality, the plans are not bad.
There were a couple of details missing from my plans; how I was going to tie the slab overpour to the existing, how I was going to secure the base plate to that slab and the real doozey... how far from the centerline of the street.
Well, that last point has opened up a can of worms. It seems that my rectangular shaped lot has one side measuring 110 feet and the other side measuring 155 feet. Anyone who has taken 7th grade geometry can quickly see that this is impossible - it is a rectangle, after all, and two sides must be equal in length. This discrepancy is caused by the fact that my lot was originally 110 and 155, but the prior homeowner deeded the extra nub of land back to the community. So now, city hall has records which show the proper shape, but the wrong dimensions. Other than having to go out and buy bigger paper, I am faced with a challenge. Do I replicate the mistaken dimensions? Or do I correct the mistake and report the proper dimensions, which will, no doubt, trigger a full survey of my lot - at my expense?
I think I will just keep drawing and try to get back to city hall next week.
Thursday, May 6, 2010
The Building Permit - Why do I need this?
There are a number of "permissions" I need to get in order to do this little project. In truth, I really hemmed and hawed about whether to do this under the radar or not. In the end, I decided to do the whole thing 100% legal. Here are my reasons why:
So, the first set of permissions I need is from the city. They need to be certain that I am not doing anything wrong like getting too close to the neighbors or dropping the roof on my head. And I'm sure if they can bring some extra revenue in, that would be nice also.
I thought I would put that out there, before going down to city hall with my plans this afternoon.
- If I ever go to sell this place, I don't want any problems with any inspectors
- If there is ever a need to file an insurance claim, I don't want any problems with any inspectors
- There is electrical involved in this project. All new service off the panel needs to have a permit.
- The prior owner had an all out war with the neighbor. I suspect she would be enthusiastically continue that war with me.
- When I went to city hall to ask a few questions, they were really nice and helpful
- During the same visit to city hall, they told me they get calls every single day with neighbors ratting out other neighbors for violations and sometimes non-violations
- I am thinking about running for the board of our HOA (more on that at a later date)
So, the first set of permissions I need is from the city. They need to be certain that I am not doing anything wrong like getting too close to the neighbors or dropping the roof on my head. And I'm sure if they can bring some extra revenue in, that would be nice also.
I thought I would put that out there, before going down to city hall with my plans this afternoon.
The Office - HVAC decision
The more I looked into the subject of a ductless system, the more cornered I felt. At the onset, I was prepared to buy the unit and install it myself. Then, the more i read, the more i realized that if I did install it myself, I would basically have no warranty at all. Ok, fine. I agreed (with myself) to pay a professional HVAC technician to install it. That quickly led to the realization that the installer is also the vendor (one throat to choke - a good idea, actually). Well, maybe there are exceptions to that, but I could spend weeks finding that individual, so I've agreed with two basic givens:
1) A professional should - and will - install my 9000 BTU mini split ductless AC and heat pump
2) That professional will also go through the process of acquiring the recommended equipment
Having come to terms with those two facts, I then set forth to get quotes for installing this system. As everyone knows, a minimum of 3 quotes should be received before making a decision.
Quote #1 - called a well known outfit here in Phoenix area, Chas Roberts. The sales guy was pleasant and informed. He was off-schedule, meaning he came 3 hours early which might have been more convenient for him, but I schedule my days carefully and it's a bit annoying to have to move things around at the last minute. His quote, which never specifically stated the exact equipment to be installed, came in at around $2800. Wow! Considering the unit itself (undisclosed in the quote provided) probably costs about $1200 retail, that's a pretty sizable markup. So the extra $1600 must go towards warranty, the 3 hours or less it takes to install, and...??? Hmmm, think I'll look for a better price.
Quote #2 - called a really well known outfit here in Phoenix, Goettel (sp?). They were on-time and also pleasant. I think the rep was fairly new because he had to make a phone call to confirm some information. At the end of my very brief interview with him, I don't him not to bother writing up a quote. Now, remember, in this situation all electric will be provided exactly as they specify, slab will be in place and ready, all new construction and no working barriers. This is an 81 square foot space. Guess how much. Ok, I'll tell you; "somewhere between $7500 and $9000". Oh, c'mon now, it's air conditioning. A price like that makes me think I should get a fan and have two blocks of ice delivered every morning and in the winter, cashmere, lot's of it.
Quote #3 - called a local outfit. They were busy. Called again. They will call back. Called again. Called again. No answer. Called again, "we don't sell those". I'm estimating that quote equal to or in excess of my entire lifetime earnings.
Quote #4 - The guy answers his phone himself. He bids his own jobs. Shows up on time, reeking of cologne (because he is doing a job that morning in a cosmetics shop - whew! glad he explained that!) I think, he might actually do real work as well - which doesn't matter to me if he does or doesn't, but it does say something about him. Where did I find Aaron? Through a friend of mine who is a general contractor. Aaron looks at the space, tells me he only works with Fujistu Halcyon mini splits because they are the best. Informed, pleasant, able to respond quickly. Good. Good. Good. I got a feeling about this guy. So he says he'll have the quote to me via email later that evening. It shows up. It detailed, concise, specifies the exact equipment and the price is $2200. A quick trip to the BBB website and...
Aaron at Infinite Cooling and Heating gets the job. I look forward to having them install my Fujistu Halcyon 9RL mini split system.
Now, one thing I have to say, and I'll elaborate a bit more on my next few posts. Budget. Oooh. That stings a little bit. (and one last time, I would be happy to install this unit myself, but the warranty... I check the retail price, it's about $1400-$1500, which means that, at most, I'm paying the contractor $800 for the work, that seems very fair to me.)
1) A professional should - and will - install my 9000 BTU mini split ductless AC and heat pump
2) That professional will also go through the process of acquiring the recommended equipment
Having come to terms with those two facts, I then set forth to get quotes for installing this system. As everyone knows, a minimum of 3 quotes should be received before making a decision.
Quote #1 - called a well known outfit here in Phoenix area, Chas Roberts. The sales guy was pleasant and informed. He was off-schedule, meaning he came 3 hours early which might have been more convenient for him, but I schedule my days carefully and it's a bit annoying to have to move things around at the last minute. His quote, which never specifically stated the exact equipment to be installed, came in at around $2800. Wow! Considering the unit itself (undisclosed in the quote provided) probably costs about $1200 retail, that's a pretty sizable markup. So the extra $1600 must go towards warranty, the 3 hours or less it takes to install, and...??? Hmmm, think I'll look for a better price.
Quote #2 - called a really well known outfit here in Phoenix, Goettel (sp?). They were on-time and also pleasant. I think the rep was fairly new because he had to make a phone call to confirm some information. At the end of my very brief interview with him, I don't him not to bother writing up a quote. Now, remember, in this situation all electric will be provided exactly as they specify, slab will be in place and ready, all new construction and no working barriers. This is an 81 square foot space. Guess how much. Ok, I'll tell you; "somewhere between $7500 and $9000". Oh, c'mon now, it's air conditioning. A price like that makes me think I should get a fan and have two blocks of ice delivered every morning and in the winter, cashmere, lot's of it.
Quote #3 - called a local outfit. They were busy. Called again. They will call back. Called again. Called again. No answer. Called again, "we don't sell those". I'm estimating that quote equal to or in excess of my entire lifetime earnings.
Quote #4 - The guy answers his phone himself. He bids his own jobs. Shows up on time, reeking of cologne (because he is doing a job that morning in a cosmetics shop - whew! glad he explained that!) I think, he might actually do real work as well - which doesn't matter to me if he does or doesn't, but it does say something about him. Where did I find Aaron? Through a friend of mine who is a general contractor. Aaron looks at the space, tells me he only works with Fujistu Halcyon mini splits because they are the best. Informed, pleasant, able to respond quickly. Good. Good. Good. I got a feeling about this guy. So he says he'll have the quote to me via email later that evening. It shows up. It detailed, concise, specifies the exact equipment and the price is $2200. A quick trip to the BBB website and...
Winner! Winner! Chicken dinner!
Aaron at Infinite Cooling and Heating gets the job. I look forward to having them install my Fujistu Halcyon 9RL mini split system.
Now, one thing I have to say, and I'll elaborate a bit more on my next few posts. Budget. Oooh. That stings a little bit. (and one last time, I would be happy to install this unit myself, but the warranty... I check the retail price, it's about $1400-$1500, which means that, at most, I'm paying the contractor $800 for the work, that seems very fair to me.)
Saturday, May 1, 2010
The Yard - Naked
When I purchased this house, the backyard was a mess. Looking back at the photos, it actually looks quite nice; lush. However, there was a lot of wasted space and it just wasn't what I wanted. Also, the two queen palms and I didn't get off to a good start - at $25 to $50 a year to have them pruned, I decided they offered me nothing and would have to go. Had they been Date Palms - much lower to the ground, indigenous to this area and offering shade - I would have probably left them there.After removing all the rocks in the yard (mixed throughout with tiny little dog poo) my next big project was to deal with the trees, the vines and the barrier wall used to conceal the pool pump. I wasn't really sure where I was going with it and as the project has unfolded, I'm now at a much more informed point then I was when I started.
Having the trees and stumps removed cost me $500. Growing up, I cut down a lot of trees so I thought it was pretty high of a price. However, this ain't no country livin', so I have to pay crazy prices for small tasks. The service was great and I would use Branch Management again, should the need arise (in all fairness,they were the cheapest quote I got).In addition to removing the trees, I removed the railroad ties that were set vertically in the ground and also took down the nasty vine stuff that was strangling everything in it's sight.
Now, I have a fully naked backyard. Ready for moving the sand filter, building a fountain and a water garden and, eventually, artificial grass.
Yeah, I know it looks like hell right now, but in a month or two it should look slightly better than hell. I hope.
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
The Office - Windows
Ok, I just read this on HouseRepair Talk
"Hmm...
By the time you get a window in between 2 studs, 16"-1 1/2"=14 1/2", you will still need at the very least 1/2" of space around the frame to plumb, level and square the frame. 14 1/2"-1"=13 1/2". Then the frame, 3/4" on each side, 13 1/2"-1 1/2"-12". Then substract the width of the sash 1 3/4" on each side of the window, 12"-3 1/2"=8 1/2" wide glass. The frame and the trim adds up to be as wide as the glass. Makes an odd looking window."
The person has a great point. I think I'll run down to Big Orange and see what they have to say. Since I'm not thinking of casement windows for this, I might be able to shave a bit off the sash width. They are having a sale this week on special order windows, so I'd like to get this resolved this week.
"Hmm...
By the time you get a window in between 2 studs, 16"-1 1/2"=14 1/2", you will still need at the very least 1/2" of space around the frame to plumb, level and square the frame. 14 1/2"-1"=13 1/2". Then the frame, 3/4" on each side, 13 1/2"-1 1/2"-12". Then substract the width of the sash 1 3/4" on each side of the window, 12"-3 1/2"=8 1/2" wide glass. The frame and the trim adds up to be as wide as the glass. Makes an odd looking window."
The person has a great point. I think I'll run down to Big Orange and see what they have to say. Since I'm not thinking of casement windows for this, I might be able to shave a bit off the sash width. They are having a sale this week on special order windows, so I'd like to get this resolved this week.
Monday, April 26, 2010
The Office - Windows
Wavering between too many choices of windows, I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with Jeld-Wen brand. I'm not thrilled with Big Orange Box's subcontractor, but the convenience of getting the product and the price is what is influencing my decision. Before placing an order, I'm going to talk with a contractor friend of mine. He has a door & window guy that,, even if his installation price is the same or worse, I'll go with that. I really annoys me that the big orange subcontractor wont finish the job (i.e. they wont repair the stucco after the sliders have been replaced). At $400 a slider (install cost), I would think that's the least they could do.
Although the office is a priority right now, I do need to consider that I will be replacing my patio sliders soon and I suppose it is a good idea to get them all to match.
So... windows for the office. I've decided on the north wall to put a 4'x3' sliding window and was going to do the same on the east wall. However, that east wall is technically a bearing wall. It would mean removing 2 studs (2x6 construction), and even though I am capable of building a bridge and ensuring no problems down the line, I just don't want to muck with it.
Here's what I originally thought of (the 4'x3' option):
But, if I just get some non-opening windows (turns out it's called a picture window), then I can fit them between the studs and never alter the structural aspects of the wall.
Five of these look silly.
So I think I will go with just three.
Pretty quickly, I'll have to address the glare/sunshine issue.
Although the office is a priority right now, I do need to consider that I will be replacing my patio sliders soon and I suppose it is a good idea to get them all to match.
So... windows for the office. I've decided on the north wall to put a 4'x3' sliding window and was going to do the same on the east wall. However, that east wall is technically a bearing wall. It would mean removing 2 studs (2x6 construction), and even though I am capable of building a bridge and ensuring no problems down the line, I just don't want to muck with it.
Here's what I originally thought of (the 4'x3' option):
But, if I just get some non-opening windows (turns out it's called a picture window), then I can fit them between the studs and never alter the structural aspects of the wall.
Five of these look silly.
So I think I will go with just three.
Pretty quickly, I'll have to address the glare/sunshine issue.
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
The Office - HVAC
Been looking into air conditioning and heating units. Currently the space has nothing. I'm pretty certain I'm going to install a mini-split system (aka ductless). There are really good prices for Celiera brand systems, but cmon, do i really want to buy a brand I've never heard of? No way!
Even though the LG is about $300 more expensive, I think it is a good idea to go with a name that I recognize.
Mini splits are good for this space since they are very low profile inside, keeps the noise outside and completely independent of the rest of the house. In my last house, I had a similar structure as this one and the owner had installed a through-the-wall unit. It was so loud that I had to turn it off during conference calls - when it's 120 degrees out (about 45 centigrade) turning off the AC quickly turns to misery.
Not sure I will stick with LG. Sanyo and the other popular brands look good. Something around $1000 for 10,000 BTU should do it - maybe more than enough since it's only about 100 sq feet.
Even though the LG is about $300 more expensive, I think it is a good idea to go with a name that I recognize.
Mini splits are good for this space since they are very low profile inside, keeps the noise outside and completely independent of the rest of the house. In my last house, I had a similar structure as this one and the owner had installed a through-the-wall unit. It was so loud that I had to turn it off during conference calls - when it's 120 degrees out (about 45 centigrade) turning off the AC quickly turns to misery.
Not sure I will stick with LG. Sanyo and the other popular brands look good. Something around $1000 for 10,000 BTU should do it - maybe more than enough since it's only about 100 sq feet.
Thursday, April 15, 2010
The Office Floor
I need to figure out how I'm going to raise up this floor. It's a 3'6" x 9' x 3.5" space (roughly). In the picture on the left, I am raising up the floor from the front corner to the back corner. Fortunately, I don't have to cut any tiles because the joints fall exactly where I need to raise the floor.
First off, I know I have to remove the saltillo tiles. Under the tiles, there are a lot of question marks!
Here's what I'm trying to figure out:
1. Can I pour a 3 1/2" layer of concrete on top of the concrete slab?
2. Do I need to drill holes into the existing slab and put short, vertical rebar?
3. Do I need to put a wire mesh/grid down?
4. Do I need to put some form of bonding agent on the existing slab?
and a few more questions, with pictures...
Regarding tying into the side of the house,
5. do I need to put horizontal rebar here?
6. Should I put an expansion joint between the old and the new?
7. Should I do anything to stop termites from finding this joint/seam to be a nice place to vacation?
Regarding tying into the office floor (the existing raised slab)
8. Do I need to drill holes and put horizontal rebar here?
9. Do I need to put an expansion joint here?
10. Should I chip out a little of the existing and float the new into that cavity (assuming there is no expansion joint of course)
And lastly, regarding "matching" what the builder did back in 1979...
Here's a closeup of the existing wall to slab area (it's the southeast corner of the office)
What's that metal for? Do I need that? The part that I'm extending is about 3' 6" long so maybe i can get away without it. Maybe length has nothing to do with it. Is it for structure? for drainage? breathing? keeping the wet cement from dripping out while it cures? not sure.
And one last photo to show how thick this slab is (it goes deeper, but I didn't feel like digging all the way to the bottom)
 from one direction |  from the other direction |
Here's what I'm trying to figure out:
1. Can I pour a 3 1/2" layer of concrete on top of the concrete slab?
2. Do I need to drill holes into the existing slab and put short, vertical rebar?
3. Do I need to put a wire mesh/grid down?
4. Do I need to put some form of bonding agent on the existing slab?
and a few more questions, with pictures...
Regarding tying into the side of the house,
5. do I need to put horizontal rebar here?
6. Should I put an expansion joint between the old and the new?
7. Should I do anything to stop termites from finding this joint/seam to be a nice place to vacation?
Regarding tying into the office floor (the existing raised slab)
8. Do I need to drill holes and put horizontal rebar here?
9. Do I need to put an expansion joint here?
10. Should I chip out a little of the existing and float the new into that cavity (assuming there is no expansion joint of course)
And lastly, regarding "matching" what the builder did back in 1979...
Here's a closeup of the existing wall to slab area (it's the southeast corner of the office)
What's that metal for? Do I need that? The part that I'm extending is about 3' 6" long so maybe i can get away without it. Maybe length has nothing to do with it. Is it for structure? for drainage? breathing? keeping the wet cement from dripping out while it cures? not sure.
And one last photo to show how thick this slab is (it goes deeper, but I didn't feel like digging all the way to the bottom)
The Office - first post
Well, I need to build myself a home office. I am a home office employee and have one of three bedrooms as a dedicated office now. However, come this August, there will be a newborn in the house and I really don't think the current room I'm using is going to jive well with the baby.
As a solution, I am going to convert the "pool shed" to my office. It's a little cramped, has no heat or air, no windows, no electric per se, termite evidence, uninsulated and a few other insufficient aspects for a good office.
Total Budget I hope is about $5000. I'd really like it to be less, if possible.
Here's the list of To Do's for the office: (not a full list, but gets me started)
Pricing/Planning
Demo
Foundation & Framing & Exterior
In-Wall Stuff & Electric
Sealing/Finishing
As a solution, I am going to convert the "pool shed" to my office. It's a little cramped, has no heat or air, no windows, no electric per se, termite evidence, uninsulated and a few other insufficient aspects for a good office.
Total Budget I hope is about $5000. I'd really like it to be less, if possible.
Here's the list of To Do's for the office: (not a full list, but gets me started)
Pricing/Planning
- Price out a split system heat/air unit - can I afford this?
- Price out windows & door
- Figure out what kind of floor I want (and can afford)
- Figure out if I want a solar tube, can afford it, and handle the stress of cutting a hole in my roof, etc
Demo
- Remove existing sheetrock from walls & ceilings
- Remove west wall & door
Foundation & Framing & Exterior
- Raise concrete slab on patio to meet slab of office
- Frame back wall (south) extension by 3'6"
- Frame west wall extension (from house wall) by about 2'
- Frame north wall w/ door opening
- Cut out opening for north window (4'x3')
- Cut out opening for east window(s) (4'x3' or 3- 1'x5'??)
- Seal exterior walls - barrier + plywood + stucco
In-Wall Stuff & Electric
- Run electric from garage (oh, a whole other set of posts)
- Wire 4 cans (recessed lights) with 2-way switch
- Wire outlets
- Wire phone
- Wire network - (planning a big patch panel, using this room as a central dispatch for network)
- Add reinforcements for built-in shelves and desks
- Pink insulation and polyboard insulation (gets hot in Arizona!)
- Prepare for AC/Heat system
Sealing/Finishing
- Put up sheetrock, tape, sand, prime
- Build built-in bookcases & file cabinets
- Build built-in desks
- Install flooring (?wood?, carpet? tile?)
- Install windows & door
- Install trim
- Patch stucco outside
- Paint/Stain/etc
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