The Office - Windows

Ok, I just read this on HouseRepair Talk

"Hmm...
By the time you get a window in between 2 studs, 16"-1 1/2"=14 1/2", you will still need at the very least 1/2" of space around the frame to plumb, level and square the frame. 14 1/2"-1"=13 1/2". Then the frame, 3/4" on each side, 13 1/2"-1 1/2"-12". Then substract the width of the sash 1 3/4" on each side of the window, 12"-3 1/2"=8 1/2" wide glass. The frame and the trim adds up to be as wide as the glass. Makes an odd looking window."

The person has a great point. I think I'll run down to Big Orange and see what they have to say. Since I'm not thinking of casement windows for this, I might be able to shave a bit off the sash width. They are having a sale this week on special order windows, so I'd like to get this resolved this week.

The Office - Windows

Wavering between too many choices of windows, I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with Jeld-Wen brand. I'm not thrilled with Big Orange Box's subcontractor, but the convenience of getting the product and the price is what is influencing my decision. Before placing an order, I'm going to talk with a contractor friend of mine. He has a door & window guy that,, even if his installation price is the same or worse, I'll go with that. I really annoys me that the big orange subcontractor wont finish the job (i.e. they wont repair the stucco after the sliders have been replaced). At $400 a slider (install cost), I would think that's the least they could do.
Although the office is a priority right now, I do need to consider that I will be replacing my patio sliders soon and I suppose it is a good idea to get them all to match.

So... windows for the office. I've decided on the north wall to put a 4'x3' sliding window and was going to do the same on the east wall. However, that east wall is technically a bearing wall. It would mean removing 2 studs (2x6 construction), and even though I am capable of building a bridge and ensuring no problems down the line, I just don't want to muck with it.

Here's what I originally thought of (the 4'x3' option):
But, if I just get some non-opening windows (turns out it's called a picture window), then I can fit them between the studs and never alter the structural aspects of the wall.

Five of these look silly.












So I think I will go with just three.








Pretty quickly, I'll have to address the glare/sunshine issue.

The Office - HVAC

Been looking into air conditioning and heating units. Currently the space has nothing. I'm pretty certain I'm going to install a mini-split system (aka ductless). There are really good prices for Celiera brand systems, but cmon, do i really want to buy a brand I've never heard of? No way!
Even though the LG is about $300 more expensive, I think it is a good idea to go with a name that I recognize.
Mini splits are good for this space since they are very low profile inside, keeps the noise outside and completely independent of the rest of the house. In my last house, I had a similar structure as this one and the owner had installed a through-the-wall unit. It was so loud that I had to turn it off during conference calls - when it's 120 degrees out (about 45 centigrade) turning off the AC quickly turns to misery.
Not sure I will stick with LG. Sanyo and the other popular brands look good. Something around $1000 for 10,000 BTU should do it - maybe more than enough since it's only about 100 sq feet.

The Office Floor

I need to figure out how I'm going to raise up this floor. It's a 3'6" x 9' x 3.5" space (roughly). In the picture on the left, I am raising up the floor from the front corner to the back corner. Fortunately, I don't have to cut any tiles because the joints fall exactly where I need to raise the floor.

from one direction

from the other direction

First off, I know I have to remove the saltillo tiles. Under the tiles, there are a lot of question marks!

Here's what I'm trying to figure out:
1. Can I pour a 3 1/2" layer of concrete on top of the concrete slab?
2. Do I need to drill holes into the existing slab and put short, vertical rebar?
3. Do I need to put a wire mesh/grid down?
4. Do I need to put some form of bonding agent on the existing slab?
and a few more questions, with pictures...

Regarding tying into the side of the house,


5. do I need to put horizontal rebar here?
6. Should I put an expansion joint between the old and the new?
7. Should I do anything to stop termites from finding this joint/seam to be a nice place to vacation?



Regarding tying into the office floor (the existing raised slab)
8. Do I need to drill holes and put horizontal rebar here?
9. Do I need to put an expansion joint here?
10. Should I chip out a little of the existing and float the new into that cavity (assuming there is no expansion joint of course)

And lastly, regarding "matching" what the builder did back in 1979...

Here's a closeup of the existing wall to slab area (it's the southeast corner of the office)
What's that metal for? Do I need that? The part that I'm extending is about 3' 6" long so maybe i can get away without it. Maybe length has nothing to do with it. Is it for structure? for drainage? breathing? keeping the wet cement from dripping out while it cures? not sure.



And one last photo to show how thick this slab is (it goes deeper, but I didn't feel like digging all the way to the bottom)

The Office - first post

Well, I need to build myself a home office. I am a home office employee and have one of three bedrooms as a dedicated office now. However, come this August, there will be a newborn in the house and I really don't think the current room I'm using is going to jive well with the baby.
As a solution, I am going to convert the "pool shed" to my office. It's a little cramped, has no heat or air, no windows, no electric per se, termite evidence, uninsulated and a few other insufficient aspects for a good office.



Total Budget I hope is about $5000. I'd really like it to be less, if possible.


Here's the list of To Do's for the office: (not a full list, but gets me started)


Pricing/Planning

• Price out a split system heat/air unit - can I afford this?
• Price out windows & door
• Figure out what kind of floor I want (and can afford)
• Figure out if I want a solar tube, can afford it, and handle the stress of cutting a hole in my roof, etc

Demo

• Remove existing sheetrock from walls & ceilings
• Remove west wall & door

Foundation & Framing & Exterior

• Raise concrete slab on patio to meet slab of office
• Frame back wall (south) extension by 3'6"
• Frame west wall extension (from house wall) by about 2'
• Frame north wall w/ door opening
• Cut out opening for north window (4'x3')
• Cut out opening for east window(s) (4'x3' or 3- 1'x5'??)
• Seal exterior walls - barrier + plywood + stucco

In-Wall Stuff & Electric

• Run electric from garage (oh, a whole other set of posts)
• Wire 4 cans (recessed lights) with 2-way switch
• Wire outlets
• Wire phone
• Wire network - (planning a big patch panel, using this room as a central dispatch for network)
• Add reinforcements for built-in shelves and desks
• Pink insulation and polyboard insulation (gets hot in Arizona!)
• Prepare for AC/Heat system

Sealing/Finishing

• Put up sheetrock, tape, sand, prime
• Build built-in bookcases & file cabinets
• Build built-in desks
• Install flooring (?wood?, carpet? tile?)
• Install windows & door
• Install trim
• Patch stucco outside
• Paint/Stain/etc